(waitress at crepe place)For over a year, my friend Minh and I have discussed traveling and food as our top two passions (or at least among them). Finally we got together and we roadtripped to Canada this past long weekend to get away. There was a car filled with people and we departed on a beautiful sunny day in Boston to Canada last Saturday about 9:30amish. We originally aimed to get out by 7am but as you know with a group of people that never happens. At least we had a light breakfast and bought some provisions at the local Somerville Shaw's before departing. Got to try some of the new guacomole pringles (loved the zing at the end of each bite) coupled with South African clementines and other fruit. Water provisions were plentiful as we all know the importance of water and hydration. As for tunes for the trip, the IPOD Minh brought along could not work via using a "tape" to play. Luckily I brought a myriad of CDS to make the time go by quickly from dance music (love Melanie C's "I Turn to You") to Korean dance music and ballads, Canto pop and Japanese (OST original sound tracks of my fave Japanese dramas).
We make it to the border with no hiccups. By the time we wanted to have lunch, there were a lack of choices as Saturday was July 1 (National Canada Day). We made a few stops to find no choices for us. We finally found a place open and settled in for a lunch (we were ravenous) at
Rôtisserie St-Hubert which is known for their roast chicken and equally famous gravy and ribs. I opted for a Mexican salad, we shared some wings and I had to have some chicken veggie salad as I felt I was getting under the weather. (The roast chicken was good but not as good at Costco's roast chicken. They make a good roast chicken and only $5 for a big roast chicken to boot! It took my sister and I about a week to finish one by ourselves!) The good thing was instead of rolls or buns, we got vinegary or regular cole slaw immediately with our ice waters when we sat down. ANY FOOD is heavenly when you are ravenous! Even my friend who dislikes cole slaw ate it! Hunger does weird things to people!
After feeding our starving tummies, we head to Québec City, but our yahoo map directions were a bit faulty. After a false turn and a kind local's directions we found our lodgings---Best Western (just outside "Old Québec City"). Once we got ourselves settled and it being only 4pm we head out to wander around the old part of town. We concentrated on mainly walking around the UPPER area. I loved the fact it was a walled city seeing the old walls. Saint Jean is a big street teaming with many shops (beckoning shoppers to come in---big SALE /SOLDE signs everywhere) , restaurants and boutiques. We catch some street performers by the upper town's view of the lower town.
(from UNESCO website about Québec City)
Québec was founded by the French explorer Champlain in the early 17th century. It is the only North American city to have preserved its ramparts, together with the numerous bastions, gates and defensive works which still surround Old Québec. The Upper Town, built on the cliff, has remained the religious and administrative centre, with its churches, convents and other monuments like the Dauphine Redoubt, the Citadel and Château Frontenac. Together with the Lower Town and its ancient districts, it forms an urban ensemble which is one of the best examples of a fortified colonial city.
After walking around we decide we want to grab dinner. But since it is around 7pm, we grapple with the fact we want high end French or something more local. Minh mentions we could check out this place which was mentioned on a walking tour during his prior trip to the city.
Aux Anciens Canadiens 34, rue Saint-LouisC. P. 175, succursale Haute-VilleQuébec, QC G1R 4P3Canada(418) 692-1627
The oldest house in Québec (1675) has been transformed into a restaurant. Five dining rooms, decorated with antiques and collectors' items. Authentic Québec cuisine featuring regional produce. The place is quaint and this ends up being my 'most expensive meal of the trip' but I keep in mind that I want to try many of the local faves. I am glad to discover my other travel companions are of the same mind frame (I already knew Minh was that way too). I decided to have the fixed dinner menu and started out with the Lobster Bisque (which was nice and creamy with the hint of lobster. Next was something I was game to try-- Buffalo Tartar (tasted pretty good with the accompanying toast point (lovely and very lean). I got to nibble my friend's escargot in great garlicky butter sauce! Since I read that game meats are also a local thing, I got a platter of them as well. which was the Country platter: Quebec meat pie, meatball ragout, salt pork grillades, baked beans. I even liked the baked beans (long story short I had them too much growing up so I have bad childhood memories affiliated with them) but it was good. I got to try my friend's Duck in Maple Sauce, some more game meat--pheasant and caribou as well as a game meat stew too. Dessert was good nibbling on the local Maple Syrup Pie (too sweet after two bites) so I enjoyed my Trio of sorbets . I was too full from the rich food and meal. Wow it took a bit of time to walk off and feel a bit more comfortable after the meal. We meandered for another hour as we wanted to catch the CANADA DAY fireworks at 11pm.
The fireworks overall were ok, nothing too spectacular but there were moments of brilliance I have to say and did think seeing the "smiley" face once was cool. On the walk back, we were all tired and ready for bed. We were all tuckered out once our heads hit the pillow.
Sunday-July 2---I wanted to exercise and I went with Trinh. We went to the small work out and kept laughing when dealing with the "step machine" and "tread machine" due to the French problems. I believe we were the comic relief for another person in the room working out on the bicycle as we noticed her trying to hold back a smile. We decided to jog outside for at least 10 minutes. (You have to understand--I have not jogged in EONS). Plus with any exercise routine you should start small and not go full out to only quit very quickly. We did both feel energized and invigorated. The day started cloudy and rainy but did clear up a bit more later in by mid afternoon.
We hit the crepe place that had raves per Trinh's friend. Cassie Crêpe Breton was on the main drag we walked around in Upper Town. There was a bit of a wait but we found out why as it is a tiny place. Per the old Frommer's review it did not take credit cards, but now they do fortunately for us. Everyone got the breakfast crêpes. I got the five ingredient one----yum (cheese, mushroom, asparagus, spinach and egg), tried their carrot juice, apple juice and orange juice concoction which we all found quite tasty actually.
Afterwards we meandered about thinking of what we wanted to do next. We hit the Musée de l'Amérique française (museum)Canada's oldest museum tells about the development of French culture in North America. Plus we got an over one hour tour of the grounds and of the history of the first residents and Bishop in the city. We even got to listen to a lovely concert too. (Great for a rainy day).
After an informative almost three hours, we wanted a snack. We walked over to Crêperie le Petit Château 5, rue Saint-LouisQuébec, QC G1R 3Y8Canada(418) 694-1616Fax (418) 694-7355 which is next to Château Frontenac (a big site that everyone can see when they are in this town. Minh and Trinh never had Fondue so we decided to get a cheese and chocolate fondue! We had a lot of fun and the cheese fondue was heavy on the white wine! This snack was a big hit!
Since it was Sunday, we decided to just meander the streets of upper town and window shop or shop. I got my requisite post cards. We did see some street entertainers who were pretty amazing actually. We took a few breaks here and there. Ended up walking on Saint Jean back to the hotel for an afternoon break. We did stop at Marche to get some Ketchup Chips (YUMMY!) and I saw a variety of pates and other local stuff.
We head back and decide to have an ASIAN meal. We eye some Japanese and Thai/Viet places as we are walking around. After a wonderful break in the hotel (and nap) we head out for dinner across the street at 8:45pm. Everyone else gets noodle soup, I am the rebel to get the grilled salmon in garlic sauce at Saigon Bang Restaurant. We started with fried rolls which were quite tasty and we were hopeful. The "beef soup" was not "pho" and the noodles were all wrong and it was not spicy enough. My salmon was alright. So definitely not a highlight meal for us.
We decide to have an early night .
Monday--July 3---Trinh and I decide to take a longer job and check out the surrounding area further. We found many quaint places, bakeries, supermarket and we put in a longer jog. We both felt good after our jog. This morning, she wanted to have another crêpe place to compare the one we had the day before. I recalled the quaint costumes of the place called A Petit Coin Breton 1029, Rue Saint Jean Phone: 694-0758. (photo of waitress from yahoo travellers "jamesno").
We do wait a bit of time for our breakfast. The crêpes for three of us was the breakfast special but Pierce opted for the desert like crêpe. Afterwards we go to lower town. It is much quainter and cuter than upper town in our opinions. We found some cute doors and architecture. I love this one particular mural that has many old and recent historical figures in it showing all four seasons all at once. Very inventive and cool! We do decide to stop into this place in Place Royal into the Urban life Interpretation Centre of Québec City, this interpretation centre offers an indoor audio tour highlighting 12 aspects of Québec City history dating back to 1608 (in French, English, Spanish and German) while the Museum of Civilization is closed on Mondays.
Afterwards, we head into the Notre Dame nearby (a hop skip jump away). By now it is 2pm and we are hungry for lunch. We back track to a place we noticed we wanted to eat at after looking around Petit Champlain. We go to ASIA MISO and I get my first taste of Vietnamese beer Hue Beer and we order some of the lunch specials. Our waitress was very sweet. But this lunch was the LONGEST wait of the trip (even beat out our wait for breakfast that morning). What we thought would take one hour took almost over two hours!!! Plus the food after the long wait was not fabulous but medicre. I have to give credit to creativity and trying to make a nice appearance. But when you are famished 9 pieces of maki roll after having miso soup does not make a complete lunch.
During both these days I am battling with a cold which is bothersome for me. We decide to ax another museum trip in favor of returning to the hotel.
I have been also trying to get in touch with my pal from Houston who said he was coming from Montreal. But with expensive roaming charges, tons of little kids using the free internet (I later learn I gave the wrong area code for the hotel number (eeks)) don't help matters. Luckily late afternoon the computer is free, I email him. But after being online for a few minutes the internet connection starts to act up (after I read my friend's email saying he could not get hold of me). YIKES!
All in all, we met up and hung out for the rest of the day/afternoon evening. We realize we are famished and we want dinner. We choose a place after walking around alot of the time. I am on a mission to try the local made fromage plate (there are 35 varieties of unpasterized cheeses that can rival France but cannot be imported to the USA). Alas, I do not get my cheese platter though. We opt for a cute place with a second floor balcony window. We even get wonderful music entertainment (we are seated near a tour group). I do like my seafood au gratin (scallop and shrimp) and I do adore my chocolate mousse cake!!!! (I feel I never can go wrong with Chocolate Mousse) plus I had a salmon mousse appetizer which was refreshing and made up for the not good "grilled salmon" from the night before. After checking out upper town with him briefly we walk around lower town too. This time we take the funicular up to upper town ($1.50CA per person).
We want to go to catch jazz at the lounge inside the historical Clarendon Hotel. We listen to some of one set and I get a good peach brandy sour (I think the best drink at the table of Black Russian, Long Island, Mai tai (with coffee) and regular Mai Tai). A nice ending for a cool trip that had just flew by.
My friend decides to drive back to Montreal at around 11pm.
Tuesday July 4th---we head back to Boston under beautiful skies and some clouds later on. We grab some great chocolate pan and I get some canard foi, ketchup chips for the ride back and one type of fromage. Unfortunately my digestive system decides to give me problems twice during the trip home . After having some close calls not being able to find lavatories (in the middle of no where) I resolve to not eat/drink anything until we are back in Boston. I never want to wish any sort of travel illness on my enemies. It is just not fun. My travel companions were very understanding but initially thought I was kidding (I sooooo was not kidding!).
We ended having a cool meal at Taiwan Cafe and we shared some great Taiwanese fare. I adore "pork chop rice" and I was able to eat it on an extremely empty stomach after the long road trip. We are back by 4pm (great time and avoided alot of the traffic we thought we would hit).
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