Day two in Italy (Thursday May18), our great hostess Karen (my old roomie's lovely wife) dropped us off at Pordenone train stop (20 minutes away from her home). I decide to activate our rail pass. (I must admit a very disappointing two pages on thin paper with the first page you must write down all the travelers names and pass port numbers. On page two, you need a validation stamp and write down all the dates you plan to use the pass.) It was a great value considering the three of us were planning to do a lot of train travel while in Italy.
We hop on the train bound to Venice (Venezia) and arrive by 10am. First things first, we get cash from the ATM. (Thank goodness for them with better exchange and at $1.35USD to 1 euro the exchange rots for us and my sis gets a good rate everytime she withdraws from an ATM). I stand in line to get info about Venice from the TI (tourist information at the train station). We notice a sign saying on Friday, May 19 there will be a strike for all public transport in Italian. YOWZA! Thank goodness we are in Venice today! We have a packed agenda and to do it all we NEED the public transport. The last time I was in Venice, I was with my great hosts and we walked to San Marco's square (Piazza San Marco) and I went into the Palazzo Ducale, or Doge's Palace and was able to take the self guided tour and walk over the Bridge of Sighs as well last fall. Also I visited the Museo Correr, also known as "The Museum of the City and Civilization of Venice". Based on the lovely Blue Guide book from Karen we should get the ALL DAY transport pass good for the public boats called vaporetti and motoscafi which only costs 12 euro a person. You figure it is 5 euro (one way) just to ride down the Grand Canal or 2-3 euro (one way otherwise).
My sister and I reminisce that we had a gondola ride in Vegas last winter. Our gondolier was an Italian (a cutie patootie who sang to us) we lucked out as the other gondoliers were not Italian. But we knew the prices in Venice were astronomical so going around the vaporetti was fine for us.
We headed out to Murano to see the Murano Glass Museum (a bit far out on a separate island and entrance is 5.50 euro) and it took us a good hour to get there. The museum is small but we saw some fabulous pieces of work. There is a small garden and some information about the historical prominence of the Venetian Murano Glass makers within Europe. At one point, to keep all the tradesmen on Murano there were threats of death to those who wanted to leave the island. Now that is what I call a MONOPOLY but not a good way. The different styles, designs, etchings as well as colors are nice. You do NOT get to see a glass blowing demo. ( I did see one at the Tacoma Museum of Glass this past March which was great). I heard there are many glass factories that like to get tourists to come for free to Murano and see the glass demos and buy glass too.
The whole time in the museum took us less than an hour. We were famished by noon as the last meal was at Karen's place and we ate cereal. We went to a small sandwich shop nearby the glass museum. Got some sandwiches with ham and cheese panini (2 .50 euro each) and a glass of prosecco (1.50 euro each for myself and my sis) and my brother got the roasted veggie panini (3 euro) and still water (they love their MINERAL WATER there and you have to specify with gas or no gas ) which cost 2.50 euro. It was a great snack and once our hunger was satisfied we took the vaporetti back to the main area by San Marco's square (Piazza San Marco). I show the Bridge of Sighs to my siblings and we took some pics. Prisoners going to court would cross over and sigh as that was there only chance to see the outside via the window. Then we did get some pics of the Palazzo Ducale, or Doge's Palace.
I wanted to head to the Peggy Guggenheim collection (one of the top tourist sights according to some tourist sources I read). After getting back on the vaporetti (this time it is very crowded as we are on the Grand Canal now). I love our all day transport card, it is wonderful. No dealing with coins and validating our tickets. (If you do not have a valid ticket you are subject to heavy fines. This only occurs if the inspectors decide to ask you to cough up your ticked.) After getting off at the Accademia stop. We find that it is closed due to a meeting and reopening at 2:30. Our watches show 2pm. Since the Guggenheim collection is nearby we decide to go to it. After many bad turns we find it. One thing you learn from all the tour books, you WILL GET LOST guaranteed. The maps do not always outline or specify all the street names. It is the nature of visiting Venice (Venezia).
We finally found the Peggy Guggenheim museum which was 10 euro entrance a person. We were able to stow our bags in free lockers or you could check your bags. I always find I carry a lot in my day bag when I travel. I adore bags with TONS of pockets. I find I feel more organized for the wipes, anti bacterial gels, pens, travel journal, journal to jot down expenses, guide book, bottle of water, snacks, gum etc... There is a small sculpture garden with a few interesting pieces and we get inside the museum. I love how it is arranged (you will see photos of Peggy's home in NYC throughout the museum and actually see her furniture and the rooms designed to be replicas of her apartment (with more art of course). The small balcony overlooking the Grand Canal are Murano Glass bead necklace (a huge one). There is a bit nice hodgepodge of art there. My sister liked she got to see some photos of famous artists such as Picasso and Dali.
At the museum store, we wanted to get some momentos. Both of us settled upon purchasing a pouch with three separate pockets and zippers. This little bag ended up being very versatile and a great organizer (I put all my receipts, business cards, momentos, ticket stubs, transportation stubs etc in it). The little versatile pouch only cost is 5 euro each a bargain. Or better yet as Bostonians would say, "a BAW gahn". (I find you will never hear the letter "r" enunciated).
Then we went to the Accademia (another big spot to visit) according to the guide book there are some great Italian artist works here (not as plentiful as in Florence) but there are Canaletto, Titians... to name a few. This museum is sizable and there are helpful English translations in the helpful laminated sheets provided near the entrance or exit of each room. Without them, I know my Italian is not great (even with my guessing skills from knowing Spanish).
We cross over the wooden Accademia bridge to the other side. I want to go into a small museum that seems to have some contemporary works such as Andy Warhol's Mao etc. My sister and brother decide to wait outside for me. The name of the museum escapes me right now but it is lovely. It costs 9 euro to get in and I am in and out of there within half and hour. I guess contemporary art is not my strong interest. The building a former Palazzo is beautiful. You will find a lot of Palazzos that are converted into Hotels around the Grand Canal.
Now we just wander around it is almost 5pm and we are getting hungry. Since we are far from San Marco's square we figure the markup for our meal is not going to be too bad. Luckily I can speak a handful of phrases of Italian (which prove to be helpful throughout our travels in Italy). We find a small sandwich place with seats outside and we got attracted to their specials of the day. We got the risotto with mushrooms, spaghetti carbonara (eggs, bacon and cream) and spaghetti with tomatoes, chili, olive oil and of course a big bottle of mineral water without gas. (All our dishes costs 9 euro a piece and were very good). We enjoyed the fresh pasta, simple sauces and preparation. Just soaking in the sunset , great food, atmosphere of being away from Boston (which when we left was having flooding issues all over) and relaxing our poor tired tootsies.
Then we just wander around a bit more towards San Marco's Square to see the shops around the area and then decide to go on the Grand Canal and take the #1 (uberbusy) vaporetti back to the train station. We are aiming to take the 7:55pm back to Pordenone by 9:15pm. Luckily we have the day transport pass, after a few miscalculations we get back to the train station. Karen's Blue Guide does save the day. We never got a transport map but her guide book listed all the routes and where they went and all the stops. The blue book was a LIFESAVER! I did get to see the Rialto bridge (which I missed on my last Venice visit).
With 30 minutes til departure time, we walk around the streets near the train station checking out the souvenirs and end up getting some gelato. I am keeping my promise to myself to have gelato every day while in Italy. (I was able to keep that promise to myself throughout this trip).
I have had a lot of opinions on Venice. One close friends despises Venice while other friends thoroughly enjoyed it. I think it helped for me that both times it was not too packed, nor high tide season (certain times of the year you need TALL rain boots just to walk around). Plus I heard the smells emanating from water during very hot weather is not fun. Overall, I did enjoy Venice. I had a great time with my hosts last Fall and with my siblings.
We got back 15 minutes late (not unheard of with Trenitalia not being punctual). It worked out Karen was a little late too. We did end up going for gelato again as her favorite place was open (closed on our first night). We got some good stuff. YUM!
I repack my stuff and do some research and sleep by 2am. My brother and sister went to bed long before I did. I really want to go to the Borghese Gallery. But somehow my gut tells me it is not mean to be for me to go to (it is in Rome).
We did have a little incident where my brother could not find the keys to the separate guest house. We spent a good 15 minutes looking for it. Karen said she gave it back to him in the morning when he tried to give it to her. He said he doesn't have it as all keys he carries always go on his key chain. I get involved and make him check every pocket and look what happens---he find the key in his shirt pocket (after calming down).
Later on, I do spend an hour calming my brother down. We get into some misunderstandings as he is upset with me. My brother (he is a lovely person) has an aura of innocence and absent mindedness about him. I told him that he needs to look a bit more savvy since we are heading more south in Italy (which we heard was notorious for pickpocketing). I heard from Italians and met other travelers who have gotten stuff stolen (friends and two gals from Belarus on the train ride to Warsaw while I was backpacking).
(photos from Punch--a friend I made at the wedding I attended in Positano)
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